Van Cleef vs Cartier? What I Learned from My First Fine Jewelry Purchase

And how crunching numbers helped me find the perfect piece

With Christmas just around the corner and shopping hysteria in full swing, I decided it was time to treat myself.

This year has been a whirlwind — not the easiest, not the most successful, but definitely the most transformative. This year gave me a newfound sense of confidence, and I felt like celebrating that.

A month ago, after wrapping up a big project, I decided to buy my first piece of fine jewelry. In my mid-30s, I figured it was the perfect time to start this journey.

I wanted something special, meaningful, and timeless — but, of course, I also wanted to make a smart choice.

So, I did what any modern shopper would do: I went on YouTube to educate myself on the subject.

I learned a lot about branded jewelry — like how onyx wears better over time than pearls, why the screws in Cartier bracelets can be tricky, and that Tiffany sterling silver earrings from the Hardware collection oxidize faster than necklaces.

But here’s the thing — I was more interested in the numbers.

To my surprise, I couldn’t find much information about the financial side of buying luxury jewelry. I kept wondering: Don’t all these women spending $5,000–$10,000 on a necklace think about the true cost — or maybe even the returns — on that “investment”?

Jewelry is an emotional and deeply personal choice — don’t get me wrong. I, too, wanted my purchase to carry meaning. But my practical, numbers-driven side couldn’t help but ask:

• What’s the TCO (Total Cost of Ownership)?

• What’s the CPW (Cost Per Wear)?

• And most importantly, how quickly does it lose value?

So, I let my inner nerd take over and ran the numbers. Here’s what I discovered.

Shortlisting the Contenders

I focused on earrings and necklaces instead of bracelets or rings. While bracelets are typically the best-selling items, I wanted something closer to the face, where it could truly stand out. My final shortlist included:

1. Cartier Love in Yellow Gold

2. Clash de Cartier in Rose Gold

3. Van Cleef & Arpels Alhambra Vintage Mother-of-Pearl in Gold

4. Bulgari Serpenti Viper with Diamonds

5. Chopard Happy Diamonds in Rose Gold

Crunching the Numbers

I created a hypothetical scenario to evaluate the potential investment.

While I like to imagine keeping my jewelry forever and passing it down through generations, the reality is, I can’t predict the future.

I might decide to upgrade someday — or even need to sell it. To keep things practical, I assumed I would own the piece for a realistic period of three years before reselling it on a secondary platform.

Here’s what I looked at:

1. Price Increases Over Time
    Luxury brands have a track record of raising prices regularly. Why does this matter? If a piece’s retail price increases, its value on the secondary market often follows suit. This means you’re more likely to sell it later at a favorable price.

2. Resale Value on the Secondary Market
    This was a key metric for me: If I ever needed to part with my jewelry, how much of my initial investment could I recover?

What I Learned

• Over the past three years, prices for branded jewelry have increased by an average of 10–20%. This price appreciation can positively impact the resale value of certain pieces.

Between 2021 and 2024 prices for branded jewelry have increased by an average of 10–20%

Some designs are more in demand, making them easier to resell. Before purchasing, it’s a good idea to check platforms like Vestiaire Collective or The RealReal to see how often your chosen design is listed and whether it’s popular. For example, Cartier Love and Van Cleef & Arpels Alhambra are highly sought after, while other designs may have less consistent demand.

• Asking prices on resale platforms are typically only 5–10% below the current retail price of new items.However, don’t be misled — actual sales often happen at much lower values. After factoring in discounts, platform commissions, and shipping fees, sellers usually recover around 60–70% of the original price.

• When you account for price appreciation and resale costs, it looks like one could still recover up to 70% of your initial investment after three years.

The Cost of Ownership

If luxury jewelry producers continue to increase prices, a $5,000 piece purchased today might feel like a $1,000–$1,500 spend after factoring in resale value.

To make the math more tangible, let’s break it down into Cost Per Wear (CPW):

• Assume you wear your jewelry 100 days a year.

• Over three years, that’s 300 wears.

• The CPW comes out to $4–$5 per wear — roughly the price of a cup of coffee every time you wear it.

A Few Things to Keep in Mind

• Past price increases don’t guarantee future appreciation. While luxury jewelry has historically increased in value, there’s no certainty this trend will continue.

• Condition matters. Secondary market prices depend on factors like condition, demand, and rarity. Keeping your jewelry in excellent shape is essential for preserving its value.

What Did I Choose?

After all the research, I made my decision. Curious to see what I chose? Follow me on Instagram for the big reveal.

Final Thoughts

Whether you’re buying fine jewelry for sentimental reasons or as an investment, it’s worth approaching the decision with both your heart and your head.

A little research can go a long way in ensuring you choose a piece that holds its value and brings you joy every time you wear it.